Bundi, India | Where History Whispers
Today we again travelled by private vehicle to the district and town of Sawai Madhopur in the north-east of Rajasthan, past the Vindhya and Aravalli hill ranges and open plains.
Passing through the small village of Kothan and the locals with the camel and cart.
We arrive in Sawai Madhopur mid-afternoon and are soon picked up in a large open jeep type 4WD safari vehicle and driven to Ranthambore Tiger Reserve National Park, home to India’s reclusive Bengal Tiger.
Covering 392 sq km and regarded as one of the biggest and most renowned national parks in northern India.
Ranthambore National Park was established as the Sawai Madhopur Game Sanctuary in 1955, initially covering an area of 282 km2. It was declared one of the Project Tiger reserves in 1974 and was once a famous hunting ground for the Maharajas of Jaipur and today claims to have 40 species of animals and 300 species of birds.
We saw the odd deer and several birds, however, sadly no Bengal tigers.
Back to the town of Sawai Madhopur and a free afternoon.
The following day we have a two and a half hour drive to Bundi, travelling in private vehicles through the rural countryside of the Hadoti region that adjoins the Aravalli ranges.
A group of local Uniara women come to collect water from the water pump, and it’s not all about colourful desert nomads in Rajasthan. Making a daily task and enjoying pastime, with smiles.
Uniara Lake,
Uniara Village,
... and the striking Rose-ringed Parakeet, also known as the Ring-necked Parakeet live in camouflaging foliage.
In Hindu mythology this Parakeet is the vehicle of the god Kama, a handsome archer with mischievous eyes. With five flowers as arrows, he rouses the five senses. The red of the Parakeet’s beak represents possibilities while the green plumage represents fruition. It is desire that links possibilities to fruition; for without desire there can be no action; without action and reaction nothing exists.
A local Uniara woman doing her laundry in the Uniara Lake.
Just under two hours and we arrive in Bundi, home to an array of heritage buildings including the amazing stepwell reservoirs also known as Baoris, the Bundi Palace also known as Garh Palace, with the palace gardens home to many monkeys, at the time of my visit and a city of Brahmin-blue rooftops seen from the Garh Palace.
The Raniji ki Baori is a remarkable example of India’s ancient water management systems, a stepwell, designed to access groundwater through a descending set of stairs. Commissioned in 1699 by Queen Nathavati Ji, this 46-meter-deep stepwell showcases intricate carvings on its pillars and a grand arched entrance. The multi-story structure also features places of worship on each level, blending functionality with spirituality.
Stepwells are most commonly found in western India and other arid regions of the subcontinent, extending as far as Pakistan. Located about 600 kilometers from the Pakistan, Indian border, Bundi’s Raniji ki Baori highlights the ingenuity of these systems, developed to manage seasonal fluctuations in water availability.
Unlike standard wells, stepwells were designed not only to make accessing groundwater easier but also to facilitate the maintenance and management of these vital resources. Ingenious in their utility and breathtaking in their beauty, structures like Raniji ki Baori are a testament to the resourcefulness and artistry of Bundi’s past.
We spent an afternoon wandering through the busy alleyways and vibrant Bundi Bazaar, which offered a unique chance to mingle with the locals and gain fascinating insight into daily life. Like many of my fellow travellers, I took the opportunity to shop for local treasures.
The sacred cow, a revered symbol in India, was a common sight throughout the bazaar, often seen casually resting at road intersections or roaming amidst the bustling lanes of the marketplace.
Resting wherever it chooses.
From the bustling market streets below, the Taragarh Fort, or Star Fort, constructed in 1354 stands in semi-ruin atop a steep hillside, overlooking the grand Garh Palace and the streets of Bundi. Now bearing the scars of neglect and battle, the fort was once renowned for its intricate network of crisscrossing tunnels across the hillside.
The Taragarh fort served as the stronghold of the Chauhan dynasty, famed for its valour and bravery, and was once the residence of Prithviraj Chauhan, the legendary king who defeated Muhammad Ghori in the first battle of Tarain. The fort also witnessed numerous wars and conflicts, involving the Mughals, the Marathas, the British, and local rulers, standing as a silent witness to both the glory and agony of generations of rulers and warriors.
After our shopping, our group naturally disperses, each following their own curiosity through the winding streets and lanes of Bundi. I, along with a couple of others, find ourselves wandering through the side narrow lanes, where life unfolds in its raw and unfiltered beauty. Every corner offers a glimpse into daily routines, a man standing in front of a beautifully designed and colourful building, passing a vendor calling out the prices of his wares, and a makeshift instrument making stitched edgings for saris, at least that’s what it looked like to me.
One particularly intriguing scene catches my attention: men seated in makeshift roadside salons, each engrossed in the timeless ritual of a cut throat razor shave. Beneath the shade of battered roof or beneath open skies, barbers move with practiced precision, their skillful hands gliding blades across cheeks and chins.
The air is filled with the earthly scents, and there’s almost meditative quiet as each man sits in serene trust, surrendering to this age-old grooming tradition.
It's a captivating moment, one that speaks of simplicity and trust, and yet a meaningful ritual that connects the generations. I pause to watch, blending into the hum of the local life around me, feeling like a witness to Bundi’s enduring charm and authenticity.
By mid-afternoon, we regroup with our guide to begin the trek up the hill to Garh Palace. The 30-minute climb starts with a steep ascent along stone paths, a mix of uneven stones worn smooth by centuries of footsteps.
With each step, the journey feels like a passage into the past, drawing us closer to the majesty and history of Garh Palace. The climb is more than just a physical ascent, it’s an immersion into the stories of a bygone era, etched into the very stones that guide our way.
As we make our way upward, the effort is punctuated by moments to pause and take in the breathtaking panoramic views. Below us, Bundi’s Brahmin-blue rooftops stretch out with a tranquil vibrancy, their timeless serenity blending seamlessly with the bustling energy of the cityscape.
The term "Brahmin-blue" finds its roots in the Hindu caste system, which divides society into four primary castes: Brahmin (priestly caste), Kshatriya (warrior and administrative caste), Vaishya (merchant caste), and Shudra (labour caste). Below these are the “Untouchables,” who occupy the most marginalised positions in society. As the highest caste, Brahmins are traditionally the wealthiest, healthiest, and most educated members of society. Their homes, particularly in traditional areas, are easily recognisable by their distinct blue paint, symbolising their elevated social status.
The Garh Palace, also known as Bundi Palace or affectionately called Bundi-ka-Mahal by the locals, is an extraordinary testament to Rajput architecture. Perched high above the city, this sprawling multi-level complex built during the 17th and 18th centuries exudes an enchanting allure, offering visitors a glimpse into the grandeur and artistic vision of a bygone era.
A remarkable feature of the Garh Palace lies in its harmonious blend of additions, each named after the ruler who commissioned them. Despite the various expansions, the palace retains a uniform architectural style, lending it an air of cohesive majesty. This consistency, combined with the unique positioning of the palace on the hillside, enhances its beauty and adds to its distinct character.
Constructed between 1607 and 1631 by Raja Rao Ratan Singh Hada, the palace stands as a symbol of his legacy. Its massive structure is visible from afar, instantly recognisable by the grand stone elephants flanking its entrance, silent sentinels that have guarded this historic palace for centuries.
Passing through this splendid gateway, known as Hathi Pol (meaning "Elephant Gate"), visitors are greeted by its impressive arch that seems to frame the grandeur of the palace itself. On the opposite side of the gate, intricate carvings await, showcasing the artistic craftsmanship that defines the palace's architectural brilliance. This gateway serves as a fitting introduction to the treasures that lie within, blending strength, beauty, and a touch of mystique.
After passing through the Hathi Pol, visitors enter a lawn divided into four distinct sections. Above, on the first floor, rests a white marble throne, where pigeons have made the ledges a comfortable resting place. This garden and the first floor are known as Ratan Mahal, named after King Ratan Singh, or as he is called locally, Roa Raja Ratan Singh.
The first floor, Ratan Mahal, or also known as Diwan-e-Aam, was the heart of royal administration. This section of the palace is distinguished by numerous pillars, meeting rooms, and the throne where the king would address the people.
King Ratan Singh also added a special section to the palace, awarded to him by Mughal Emperor Jahangir in recognition of his vital role in many battles during the 17th century, that led to economic prosperity for Bundi. The Mughal Emperor sending his finest architects of the time to contribute to the city’s development, constructing stunning havelis and more than 40 schools and colleges, leading Bundi to be known as the second Kashi of India, referring to the Sanskrit word Kāśī, to shine, therefore known as the City of Light, a center of learning and culture.
Walking through a gateway from Ratan Mahal leads to Chhatar Mahal, known as the zenana, private quarters reserved exclusively for the king and his queens. This secluded sanctuary, along with other elegant sections on the western side of Garh Palace, including Phool Mahal, Badal Mahal, and Hathiasal, served as the formal residences for the queens, each space radiating charm and regality.
Chhatar Mahal, an exquisite addition by Maharao Chhatrasal Singh, illustrates the sophistication and grandeur of Rajput architecture. Its interior walls are adorned with vibrant murals in shades of turquoise green, blue, and yellow, their vivid hues harmonising with the natural beauty of Bundi’s landscape.
A mesmerising open area characterised by its many intricately designed columns, each topped with carved black elephants, certainly catch you eye as one is roaming the area of the Hatiasal. These elephants, symbolic of strength and protection, stand as silent sentries, adding a sense of grandeur to the space.
The Hatiasal, also houses a central repository for the astronomical instruments of Maharao Raja Ram Singh. This space reflects the era’s deep engagement with celestial studies and astronomy exploration. Opposite the Hatiasal lie chambers graced with intricate murals, each one a masterpiece telling vivid tales of royal grandeur, offering glimpses into the cultural and artistic opulence of Bundi’s storied past.
From Hatiasal, an external steep stone path ascends, guiding visitors toward the enchanting Chitrashala, where the richness of Bundi's artistic heritage comes alive.
The Chitrashala of Garh Palace, perched on the eastern side of the sprawling complex, is a jewel of 18th-century artistry, added by the renowned Raja Umed Singh, one of Bundi’s most celebrated rulers. Also known as Ummed Mahal, this open pavilion is a masterpiece of Bundi's heritage, housing a series of open galleries adorned with exquisite murals that epitomise the Bundi style of miniature painting.
The walls of the Chitrashala are a canvas of soft yet vivid hues, primarily blues and greens, portraying a spectrum of themes. These include religious and historical narratives, scenes of courtly life, mythical tales, celestial beauty, and royal hunting expeditions. Among the enchanting depictions, episodes from Krishna’s life stand out, with the deity easily recognisable in his iconic blue form, surrounded by intricately detailed backdrops.
The vision behind the Chitrashala was to encapsulate the history of Bundi, its illustrious rulers from the 13th to the 18th century, and the lives they led.
One section of the pavilion remains closed off, held sacred as the place where Raja Umed Singh, revered as the saint ruler of Bundi, passed away in 1804. Access to other frescoes in the palace requires permission from the royal family, as sections of the fort remain private property.
The murals of the Chitrashala are prime examples of the Bundi School of Painting, an independent branch of the Mewar School of Paintings that evolved into its own distinctive style in the early 17th century.
The Bundi School is renowned for its use of natural pigments derived from minerals, vegetables, precious stones, silver, and gold, resulting in works of lasting vibrancy and elegance. Though influenced by various artistic schools over time, the Bundi School retained its unique charm, and the Chitrashala’s murals are a testament to this enduring legacy. The paintings, remarkably well-preserved, remain a source of fascination and inspiration, drawing visitors to witness the artistic brilliance and cultural richness of Bundi.
Within the exquisite chamber lies a beautifully grafted elephant doorway. From the entrance door, through the inner elephant door, and surrounded by the many exquisite paintings, one is transported into the elegance of Badal Mahal, an extraordinary retreat within the regal confines of the Garh Palace. Known as the Palace of Clouds, this resplendent sanctuary was a haven for the queens of Bundi, a place of solace and beauty amidst the rugged mountains of the Aravalli range.
Nestled beneath the formidable Taragarh Fort, Badal Mahal radiates an aura of celestial grace. Its walls are adorned with magnificent paintings crafted between 1687 to 1707. These intricate artworks, executed in distinctive Bundi style, weave enchanting tales of royal life, mythical epics, and divine beings. Bold strokes of red and delicate etchings in gold heightened the grandeur, while the turquoise green, blue, and yellow, evoke a sense of tranquillity and mirroring the palace’s poetic name. Every detail of this chamber speaks to its regal purpose, a haven elevated above the bustling city, of Bundi’s rooftops and the sprawling landscape below.
The delicate frescoes and ornate carvings reflect an era of refined artistry, where the queens could retreat to immerse themselves in a world of serenity, surrounded by the majesty of their mountainous abode. Badal Mahal is more than a place; it is a living testament to Bundi’s rich cultural tapestry, a harmonious blend of nature’s grandeur and human artistry, echoing through the ages as a true Palace of Clouds.
The palace complex is nestled against the protective embrace of the Aravalli hills, a natural fortress that fortifies its defense against invaders. These rugged hills not only serve as a shield but also add to the grandeur and strategic positioning of the palace. Their towering presence complements the architectural brilliance of the complex, creating a harmonious blend of nature and human ingenuity.
This natural barrier ensured the safety of the royal family while providing a vantage point to oversee the surrounding landscape, a testament to the foresight of Bundi’s rulers in choosing such a remarkable location.
At the time of my visit, the well maintained garden had become home to a troop of monkeys, adding an unexpected liveliness to the serene surroundings. The gardens are designed in a four-quadrant layout, featuring manicured lawns and a centrepiece, a stepped bathing fountain that had no water, framed by stone steps leading into the area where water once flowed. This tranquil space offered a perfect balance to the grandeur of the palace’s architecture.
However, my peaceful exploration took an alarming turn when a monkey leapt onto my backpack, screeching and hissing loudly in my ear, startling me beyond belief. Thankfully, our quick thinking local guide came to the rescue, striking the monkey with a stick, not once, but twice, until it retreated. It turned out I had unknowingly ventured too close to a baby monkey, prompting its fiercely protective mother to defend her young. A frightful yet unforgettable moment!
As we departed the palace complex, an unexpected encounter added another layer to the day’s memories. A local newspaper reporter approached our group, asking if we would consent to a photograph to mark tourists celebrating the day before New Year Eve at the Palace. To our delight, we made it into the local paper, a special memento of our visit.
Garh Palace is far more than just a visit to a semi-ruined historical site. It is a journey through centuries of history, a vivid immersion into Bundi’s artistry and cultural heritage. Its timeless charm leaves an indelible mark on every visitor, ensuring that the echoes of its past resonate long after you leave.
Our days in Rajasthan have been truly incredible. My spontaneous decision to visit this enchanting state has been enriching beyond my imagination. From what I’ve experienced, and there’s still so much more to explore, Rajasthan offers an abundance of wonders steeped in history and awe. The Taj Mahal in Agra, the palaces of Jaipur and Hawa Mahal, the Taragarh Fort, the Garh Palace complex, and the Baoris (stepwells) in Bundi are but a few of the state’s highlights. Many old, semi-ruined, and neglected palaces and forts are being restored and converted into heritage hotels, preserving their historical essence.
I have chosen not to include celestial planetary insights in this Soul Travel blog, as my journey across Rajasthan represents minimal shifts in latitude and longitude since being in Jaipur. Yet, the very unexpected celestial guidance continues to subtly shape my path, gently revealing what is unfolding.
In this Soul Travel blogs of my journey in India, and Rajasthan has proven itself to be a land of timeless beauty and cultural richness, a place where history breathes life into the present and leaves visitors enchanted by its magic.
See you soon,
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