Jaipur, India | A Kaleidoscope of Colour and Culture
We’ve said our goodbyes to Agra, and make our way to the local Agra bus station and travel by public bus to Jaipur. It’s a four and a half hour bus ride in a clean and very comfortable bus.
Stopping for a break we park close to a bus returning to Agra.
There’s also a number of very colouful trucks parked near by, and what was once a more traditional form of transport; a camel eating from a bag of feed on the road that will refuel its appetite. Not your average petrol stop, however, very common in rural India.
Upon arrival at the Jaipur bus station, we're transferred to jeeps for a 40-kilometer journey through the Bassi district of Rajasthan, leading us to the charming village of Madhogarh and our accommodation for the night, the historic Hotel Fort Madhogarh.
A beautiful heritage property, Hotel Fort Madhogarh is steeped in history and belongs to one of the royal families of Rajasthan. This 16th-century fort, built by Madho Singh Ji, belonging to the well-known Rajput lineage of the Kachava Clan. Over time, the fort began to show signs of wear, with peeling plaster and weathered stone slabs bearing the effects of time. Recognising its historical significance and familial legacy, Thakur Bhawani Singh, a fourth-generation direct descendant of the family, undertook the remarkable task of restoring the fort. His vision transformed this ancestral treasure into a charming, family run heritage hotel, preserving its grandeur for future generations to experience.
As we approach, a second young man steps forward, greeting us with the Hindi word for welcome, Swagath, and adorning each of us with a necklace made of flowers. The owners' two daughters then step forward, with one placing a bindi on our foreheads—a traditional mark placed between the eyebrows, said to represent the sixth chakra, ajna, symbolizing the seat of concealed wisdom. This thoughtful gesture adds a ceremonial charm to the beautifully heartfelt welcome, making our arrival truly memorable.
I’m feeling very welcomed, surrounded by such warmth and hospitality, making this moment truly special and unforgettable.
The high fort walls are a formidable sight, standing majestically atop the hill and offering a commanding view of the village of Madhogarh below, a testament to the fort’s historical significance and strategic importance.
The fort’s entrance, now cleared from the warm and festive greetings of our arrival, invites us to step out on foot for an afternoon exploring the traditional village of Madhogarh. Here, timeless customs and daily life unfold at the foothills of the imposing fort, which stands watch over the village, its presence a constant reminder of the rich history that surrounds us.
Meeting the local craftsmen and chatting with them about the traditional process of making a binding mix for walls, as well as gaining insights into their craft, provides an interesting glimpse into the village's way of life.
Meanwhile, the women of the village go about their daily chores, collecting wood, water, and grain, their tasks seamlessly woven into the rhythm of village life.
We stop by a small house where a group of young girls and an older woman are diligently polishing semi-precious stones, including amethyst, by hand, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship passed down through generations.
Meanwhile, a small group of boys work outside, hand-weaving delicate silver and gold etchings required for the intricate designs of saris, some showing their focused movements reflecting the skilled artistry of their craft.
As we leave the village to return to the fort, we pass by a local boy guiding his small herd of goats. With a casual smile, he offers to sell some local hash, but we politely decline. Nearby, another local openly partakes, a reminder of the contrasting aspects of village life here. It’s a local past time.
As we continue our walk back to the fort, we spot an older man leisurely enjoying a smoke of hash. It’s clear that smoking hash is a regular pastime, unbothered by age, woven into the fabric of daily life in this village.
As we approach the fort, we arrive just in time to witness the sunset, the golden hues casting a warm glow over the imposing walls, adding to the fort’s majestic presence and creating a tranquil, almost magical atmosphere to end our afternoon.
As the sun sets, we make our way back inside the fort, where we are honored to spend the evening as guests of the owner and his family. We are treated to a traditional Indian dinner, where the rich flavours of the local cuisine fill the air, offering a warm, memorable conclusion to a truly immersive experience.
Before we depart, we take one final moment to admire the grandeur of Fort Madhogarh. Standing at the fort's edge, we soak in the expansive views of the village below and the surrounding landscape, feeling a deep sense of appreciation for the beauty and history that has made this experience truly unforgettable.
Today, we travel by private vehicles to the vibrant city of Jaipur, famously known as the ‘Pink City’. After a short one-and-a-half-hour drive, from Fort Madhogarh we arrive at Amer Fort (also spelt as Amber Fort), an historic site that once served as the capital of Rajasthan.
The fort, perched high on a hill, was built by Raja Man Singh I and is known for its impressive artistic style, blending both Hindi and Raiput architecture and offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape, overlooking the Maota Lake as its forefront. In 1727, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who ruled from 1699 to 1744, decided to move the capital city due to the rising population and a growing scarcity of water. Relocating the capital just 11 kilometers to the east, to the city of Jaipur, where it stands today as the heart of Rajasthan.
Within the walls of Amer Fort, we enter through the Surajpol, the main entrance, which leads us into a magnificent palace complex. The fort’s design unfolds in a four-level layout, each level featuring its own distinct courtyard, showcasing the strategic brilliance of Rajput architecture. The palace is an opulent blend of red sandstone and marble, with intricate carvings and decorative elements that reflect the splendour and artistry of the era. Each courtyard offers a unique ambiance, from serene gardens to ornate halls, inviting exploration and admiration of the fort's regal beauty.
Approaching the first level, one is immediately drawn to the intricately floral designs surrounding the iconic symbol of Ganesha, the Hindu elephant god symbolising protection and the removal of obstacles from one's path. The perfect symmetry of both the left and right sides of the Ganesh Gate further emphasise the beauty and balance of this architectural masterpiece. This beautifully crafted entrance stands as a testament to the precision and artistry of Rajput architecture, while the gate’s balanced proportions highlight the skillful craftsmanship that defines Amer Fort.
Let’s step through the Ganesh Gate into a framed wall of arches, where you’re immediately dazzled by the Sheesh Mahal (Glass Palace). Behind the arches of Jai Mandir lies the stunning interior of this structure, with walls and ceilings entirely covered in intricate inlaid glass mirror mosaics and white marble bas reliefs. This opulent space was once used by the Maharajas to receive their close subjects, creating an atmosphere of awe and grandeur that reflects the wealth and sophistication of the Rajput rulers. The shimmering glass and fine marble details evoke a sense of timeless beauty, making it one of the most remarkable features of Amer Fort.
The connecting walls, with large ramparts and inner cobbled paths, form the pathway between Amer Fort and Jaigarh Fort. Jaigarh Fort is situated immediately above Amer Fort on the Cheel ka Teela (Hill of Eagles) within the same Aravalli range. Considered part of a single complex with Amer Fort, the two are seamlessly linked by a subterranean passage. This secret route was designed as an escape route during times of war, allowing royal family members and others in Amer Fort to swiftly retreat to the more fortified Jaigarh Fort, ensuring their safety during times of danger.
We now reach the fourth and final courtyard of Amer Fort, where the picturesque pavilion of the palace lies within the Zenana, the Royal Family’s Women’s Quarters. This courtyard is home to many private apartments where the Maharaja's wives resided. Each apartment was designed with privacy in mind, featuring balconies that overlook the courtyard. A hidden corridor, unseen from the apartments, allowed the Maharaja to visit his favorite wife discreetly, without the others knowing. At the heart of the living quarters stands the Baradari Pavilion, the oldest structure in Amer Fort, which took 25 years to complete and was finished in 1599. This elegant structure, with its roof supported by columns and arches, offers a welcome respite from the intense summer heat. It was used by the queens as a place to gather for royal council and relaxation.
As we leave the grandeur of Amer Fort behind, we carry with us the echoes of its rich history, intricate architecture, and the timeless stories of royal life that continue to resonate through its walls.
Leaving Amber Fort and making our way to our accommodation in Jaipur, we make a brief stop to see Maota Lake. Once the primary water source for the fort, this tranquil lake reflects the surrounding landscape, adding to the charm of the journey.
A short ten-minute drive from Maota Lake brings us to the Jal Mahal, or Water Palace, resting gracefully on the tranquil Man Sagar Lake. Built by Madho Singh I and inspired by the majestic Jag Mandir Palace in Udaipur, where the Raja spent much of his childhood, now the Jal Mahal stands as an architectural gem.
The palace, a harmonious blend of Rajput and Mughal styles, is a hallmark of Rajasthan's rich architectural heritage. Its red sandstone structure rises five stories, with four submerged under water when the lake is full, leaving only the top floor visible.
This picturesque marvel is best viewed from the Mansagar Dam on the lake’s eastern side, a perfect vantage point that also showcases the surrounding Nahargarh hills, aptly known as the abode of the tigers.
The origins of Man Sagar Lake trace back to the 16th century, when it was created following a severe famine. To address the region’s water scarcity, the ruler of Amer constructed a dam, resulting in this serene, artificial lake. In the 18th century, Maharaja Jai Singh II renovated the palace, further enhancing its beauty and leaving an enduring legacy for visitors to admire.
After a full day immersed in the rich architecture and historical treasures of the Jaipur region, I found myself feeling unwell. Regretfully, I parted ways with the group and hopped into a tuk-tuk, heading straight for our accommodation. The rest of the late afternoon passed quietly as I rested and slept through to the following morning, having drunk lots of water every time I woke up and feeling I’d regained my energy for the day ahead.
Second day in Jaipur
Our morning starts with one of the highlights of the trip for me, visiting the Jantar Mantar, a remarkable collection of architectural astronomical instruments built by Maharaja Jai Singh II between 1727 and 1734. Among the five observatories he constructed across India, the Jaipur observatory stands out as the largest and best preserved. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it serves as a testament to the astronomical expertise and cosmological understanding of a scholarly prince at the twilight of the Mughal era.
The name Jantar Mantar combines jantar (instrument) and mantar (calculation or formula), signifying, instruments for measuring the harmony of the heavens. Beyond their scientific purpose, these instruments hold religious and cultural significance, reflecting the integration of astronomy and astrology in ancient Indian traditions. Many of the astronomers who worked here were also Jyotisa masters, adept in the traditional Hindu system of astronomy and astrology. It was a fascinating experience, connecting history, science, and astrology in one awe-inspiring site.
The Jantar Mantar observatory comprises fourteen impressive geometric devices, each meticulously designed to serve a specific astronomical purpose. These instruments measure time, predict eclipses, track the positions of stars as the Earth orbits the Sun, calculate planetary declinations, and determine celestial altitudes and related ephemerides. Each structure is fixed in place, functioning as a precise and focused tool for celestial observation.
One of the most remarkable instruments, the Jai Prakash Yantra, is used to determine the exact coordinates of celestial bodies. Its ingenious design includes a small iron plate suspended between crosswires, which provides the Sun’s longitude and latitude, as well as the zodiacal sign it is traversing.
Earth orbits the Sun, calculate planetary declinations, and determine celestial altitudes and related ephemerides. Each structure is fixed in place, functioning as a precise and focused tool for celestial observation.
Among the fourteen geometric devices at Jantar Mantar, this particular instrument stands out as an equatorial sundial, distinct in design from the Laghu Samrat Yantra yet performing the same function, measuring the local solar time at Jaipur's latitude. Uniquely, it features two paired instruments: one designed for winter, when the sun resides in the southern hemisphere, and the other for summer, when the sun shifts to the northern hemisphere.
The photo, taken in late December, showcases the winter dial. Its design is both elegant and functional, consisting of a slender, rod like gnomon fixed perpendicular to the masonry dial, which is set in the plane of the equator. The gnomon is angled precisely to point toward the south pole (for the winter instrument) or the north pole (for the summer instrument). The local solar time is determined by observing the angular position of the gnomon’s shadow as it moves across the dial, a brilliant yet simple method of aligning human timekeeping with the celestial rhythms of the solar system.
The Jai Prakash Yantra is arguably Maharaja Jai Singh II's most elaborate and intricate creation at Jantar Mantar. Rooted in ancient concepts, it draws inspiration from innovations as far back as 300 B.C., when the Greco-Babylonian astronomer Berosus is believed to have developed the hemispherical sundial.
A smaller version of this design, the Kappala Yantra at Jaipur, exemplifies such early dials. However, the Jai Prakash elevates this concept to remarkable complexity, functioning as a hemispherical instrument that maps celestial coordinates with precision. It embodies not only Jai Singh’s mastery of astronomy but also his ability to blend ancient wisdom with advanced architectural ingenuity.
The Rashivalayas Yantra is a truly fascinating tool, showcasing the advanced knowledge of ancient astrology. Similar in function to the Samrat Yantra, this instrument features twelve distinct sundials, each dedicated to one of the zodiac signs: Aries, Taurus, Gemini, Cancer, Leo, Virgo, Libra, Scorpio, Sagittarius, Capricorn, Aquarius, and Pisces.
Each sundial is precisely aligned to track the movement of celestial bodies through its corresponding zodiac sign, reflecting the intricate connection between time, astronomy, and astrology. This ingenious design highlights the profound understanding and spiritual significance that ancient Indian astronomers and astrologers attributed to the harmony of the cosmos.
Standing before the giant Samrat Yantra, known as The Supreme Instrument, is an awe inspiring experience. Towering at an impressive 27 meters tall, this marvel holds the title of the world’s largest sundial. What makes it truly fascinating is the precision of its design, its shadow moves visibly, shifting approximately 1mm per second, making each passing minute an extraordinary demonstration of ancient astronomical ingenuity. It’s amazing to witness such a grand structure with the ability to measure time so accurately, serving as a testament to the brilliance of the minds that created it centuries ago.
After enjoying a morning immersed in the wonders of Jantar Mantar, we bundled up into a tuk-tuks and made our way to spend the afternoon exploring the magical ‘Pink City,’ Jaipur.
Jaipur, the capital and largest city of Rajasthan, was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amer, and is named after him. Known as the ‘Pink City’ due to its distinct pink-hued architecture, Jaipur is a blend of history, culture, and vibrant tradition. Designed by the royal architect Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, the city is laid out in a grid pattern, with wide streets and grand squares. It’s a city where the rich history of the Rajput era merges with contemporary influences, offering a glimpse into the opulent lives of its former rulers.
Walking the streets of the old walled city, we pass the Sawai Man Singh, now home to the City Museum. This historic building, completed in 1880, offers a fascinating glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Jaipur. The museum’s exhibitions tell the story of the city’s evolution, with a strong emphasis on the regional and historical context of Rajasthan. Artifacts on display span centuries of royal history, art, and craftsmanship, shedding light on the city’s rich past and its connection to the wider history of Rajasthan.
The streets of the walled city are a buzz with traffic and bustling foot activity. Our tour guide, Uttam, lends a hand to some locals, helping them push their heavy cart laden with goods up the hill.
As we continue our journey on foot along the main thoroughfare in the heart of Jaipur’s bustling business center, we approach the Hawa Mahal, the iconic "Palace of Winds." Its delicate latticework of windows draws us closer, and we are struck by the elegance of its facade. This architectural marvel offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of Jaipur's royal women, hidden behind a veil of delicately carved stone windows that allow a cool breeze to pass through, giving the palace its name.
The palace is believed to have been designed in the form of Krishna's crown, the Hindu god. Its unique five-storey exterior is truly mesmerizing, resembling the honeycomb of a beehive, with 953 small windows called jharokhas, overhanging enclosed balconies adorned with intricate latticework. The original purpose of these lattices was to allow the royal women to observe the activities of the street below without being seen, in adherence to the strict purdah (face cover) custom.
Constructed of red and pink sandstone, the Hawa Mahal is part of the City Palace, extending into the Zenana, the women’s chambers of the royal harem.
Strolling further through the streets of Jaipur, we find ourselves wandering through Chandpole Bazaar, historically renowned for its intricate marble sculptures. This speciality art form of Rajasthan is showcased in a variety of sizes and designs, with a wide range of prices to suit every budget. As we explore more of the market, we find various types of teas and sample some sugary treats, adding a delightful taste to our experience.
Jaipur is bursting with vibrant and colourful bazaars, each one brimming with treasures. The markets are filled with beautiful jewellery, textile and saris, folk art, and semi precious stones, all of which are local specialties that reflect the rich cultural heritage of the city.
Roaming the back lanes of Tripolia Bazaar, we gain a unique insight into life above the bustling marketplace. As we wander through narrow alleyways, we catch glimpses of local life and the intricate architecture of Jaipur’s old town.
After exploring the hidden corners of the bazaar, some of us enjoyed a well deserved break and stop for a soothing afternoon chai tea, savouring the warmth and rich flavours that are so deeply woven into the fabric of Indian culture.
The entry gates of Jaipur’s Walled City, locally known as Purana Shahar or Char Diwari, are iconic landmarks that echo the city's illustrious past. These gates were part of the 6 meter high and 3 meter thick walls that encircled the old city, forming a fortified perimeter known as The City Wall. Designed to protect Jaipur from external threats such as invading armies, wild animals, and armed bandits, the walls and gates were central to the city’s defense.
In the early days, movement in and out of Jaipur was strictly controlled through these gates. At dusk, the gates were closed and reopened only at dawn. To signal the evening closure, a cannon was fired, much like the tolling of bells in other cultures. This practice, ensuring the city’s security, remained in place until the 1940s when Jaipur began expanding beyond its original boundaries. Initially, only Chandpole Gate stayed open 24 hours, but eventually, other gates followed suit as the city grew.
Making our way through the bustling streets, we arrived at Chandpole Gate, a stunning example of Jaipur’s architectural heritage. Located on the western side of the walled city, this gate is adorned with intricate floral motifs that beautifully showcase the artistry of its era. Its name, Chandpole, combines Chand (Moon in Hindi) and Pol (Gate), symbolising its association with the west, a direction linked to the Moon in Indian tradition. A noteworthy feature of Chandpole Gate is the Chandpole Hanumanji Temple, an ancient shrine adjoining the gate. This revered temple is distinguished by its 25 foot high shikhar (spire), which adds an imposing yet sacred presence to the surroundings.
The Chandpole Gate stands directly opposite Suraj Pol (Sun Gate) on the eastern side of the city, with the two gates connected by a major East-West thoroughfare that runs through Jaipur’s old city. Surrounding the Chandpole gate is the bustling Chandpole Bazaar, brimming with life and colours, a vibrant market we had explored earlier.
Today, these historic gates are no longer functional for security but stand as proud symbols of Jaipur’s rich heritage. They draw visitors from around the world, offering a glimpse into the city’s architectural ingenuity and cultural significance. Nestled amidst the colourful, energetic streets of the old city, the gates inspire nostalgia and serve as lasting reminders of Jaipur’s glorious past.
Have you ever tried a Lassie?
From the Chandpole Gate, it’s a short walk back to Chandpole Bazaar, where we stop to enjoy a Lassi. This popular, creamy, and frothy yogurt-based drink is blended with water and flavoured with fruits, sugar, or savory seasonings like salt. Traditionally served in a ceramic clay cup known as a kulhad, the cup is discarded after use and recycled into new ones, showcasing a simple yet effective recycling practice. Originating in Punjab in northern India, Lassi has become a cherished drink throughout Rajasthan, offering a refreshing taste of tradition in every sip.
Our time in Jaipur draws to a close with a visit to the iconic Raj Mandir Cinema, a spectacular venue celebrated for its opulent interiors and lively atmosphere. Arriving just in time for an evening showing, we immerse ourselves in the magic of a Bollywood blockbuster, a captivating blend of Hollywood style action, romance, drama, and music, all rolled into one.
The excitement extended beyond the screen, with the local crowd’s enthusiastic cheers and laughter making the experience very unforgettable. As the intermission approached, we made our exit, taking in the city’s evening charm during one final stroll before calling it an early night.
For those who may recall, Jaipur was also the vibrant setting for the 2012 British comedy drama The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, with many of its memorable scenes filmed right here in the city.
Tomorrow, we bid farewell to Jaipur and embark on a private vehicle journey to Sawai Madhopur, a little over three hours away, before continuing to the renowned Ranthambore National Park one of the largest tiger habitats in the country.
The short four-hour travel difference between Agra and Jaipur has brought little astrological shift in planetary influences. Saturn’s steady presence continues to offer guidance, reminding me of the overwhelming burdens of my chosen profession. An accumulating Moon line signals that this is an ideal time to step into a new phase of life, one that calls for security, privacy, and comfort. I feel drawn to the idea of a haven, an environment that supports me and aligns with my deepest personal needs.
Uranus has now moved on, but the alignment of Pluto and Mars on a paran line is bringing a stronger inner transformation, gently unfolding with each step. Surrounded by the history, beauty, and simplicity of life, the celestial energies continue to align, offering me greater clarity and a deeper call to action.
In this Soul Travel blog of my journey in India, we ventured into the awe-inspiring landscapes of Bassi, beginning with Fort Madhogarh, where the ancient walls whispered stories of warriors and royalty. From there, we made our way to Amer Fort, a magnificent blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture perched above the city of Jaipur. The fort's grand structure and intricate carvings left us spellbound, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
As I embraced the vibrant heart of Jaipur, I was immersed in a city where history and modernity dance together. Alive with colour, culture, and captivating stories, Jaipur revealed itself as a place rich in heritage and architectural wonder. From the majestic gates of the walled city to the intricate details of the Hawa Mahal, every corner of Jaipur spoke of its glorious past.
See you soon,
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